The Evolution of Lab Grown Diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds have transformed from a niche curiosity to a global jewellery trend that’s reshaping the diamond industry. Today, they’re not only seen as a more affordable choice to mined diamonds but also as an ethical and sustainable alternative for engagement rings, fine jewellery, and investment pieces. At Regal Hatton Garden, we’ve witnessed this transformation first-hand. More and more of our clients are discovering that lab-grown diamonds provide the same fire, sparkle, and durability as mined diamonds, while aligning with their values. In this guide, we’ll explain exactly what lab-grown diamonds are, trace their journey from the earliest experiments to today’s cutting-edge creations, and reveal how they’re transforming the diamond world, from supply and demand to sustainability.

Lab-grown diamonds (also known as synthetic diamonds) are real diamonds, created in a controlled lab environment rather than mined from the earth’s crust. They have the same crystal structure, chemical composition, and optical properties as natural diamonds, meaning they’re just as hard, just as brilliant, and just as stunning.

The main difference? Their origin. Instead of forming over billions of years underground, lab-grown diamonds are created using cutting-edge tech that mimics the natural growth process in a matter of weeks or months.

The very first lab-grown diamond was created in the United States in 1954. Since then, diamond-making technology has advanced rapidly, and today, several countries manufacture lab-grown diamonds on a large scale. Currently, China leads the global lab-grown diamond market, accounting for approximately  56% of all lab-grown diamonds available today. India ranks as the second-largest producer, followed by the United States in third place.

These three countries dominate both industrial and jewellery-grade lab-grown diamond production, supplying retailers and manufacturers worldwide. Our experts source lab-grown diamonds from trusted suppliers in these leading markets, ensuring each stone meets our high standards for brilliance, durability, and ethical provenance.

While the first commercial success came in 1954, the concept of creating diamonds in a laboratory has fascinated scientists for centuries. Key milestones in the history of lab-grown diamonds:

• 1797- Scientists discover that diamonds are made entirely of pure carbon.

• 1940s – General Electric (GE) begins experiments to create diamonds in a laboratory setting.

• 1954 – GE produces the world’s first lab-grown diamond using the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method. Initially, these diamonds were for industrial use, valued for their extreme hardness and durability in cutting, grinding, and drilling.

• 1970s – The first gem-quality lab-grown diamonds became available.

• 1980s – High-quality lab-grown diamonds enter commercial markets. The chemical vapour deposition (CVD) method is developed further, paving the way for more consistent gem-quality diamonds.

• 2007 – The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) introduces the first grading reports for lab-grown diamonds, providing buyers with greater confidence in the quality of these diamonds.

• 2018 – The U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) formally recognises lab-grown diamonds as real diamonds.

After the breakthrough in Lab-grown diamond synthesis, the first stones made were sent to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) for examination. When the GIA first received and examined these early lab-created diamonds, the focus was on understanding their growth structures and identifying features that differentiated them from natural diamonds.

The examined stones were found to weigh between 0.26 and 0.30 carats and were graded between F and J colour. These early examinations would later form the basis of today's grading and lab diamond certification standards. Hatton Garden's experts keep up with these evolving industry standards, ensuring clients receive lab-grown diamonds that meet the highest levels of quality and authenticity.

Despite their brilliance, these stones were too expensive compared to traditional diamond mining to compete economically with natural diamonds using the high-temperature and pressure method, plus early lab-grown diamonds often displayed inclusions, tints (due to excess nitrogen), and uneven crystal growth. Such stones wouldn't receive high grades according to the colour and clarity standards for white or colourless diamonds. As a result, these diamonds were more commonly used in mechanical applications such as cutting and drilling.

Research eventually revealed ways to reduce nitrogen levels, producing colourless diamonds. By the late 20th century, scientists in the United States, Russia, and China had refined the process, creating stones that could rival, and in some cases exceed, the size, clarity, and colour of natural diamonds. This steady improvement paved the way for the modern lab-grown diamond industry, now offering stones suitable for high-end ethical jewellery, including bespoke engagement rings tailored to individual style and budget.

The first lab-grown diamonds were made using the High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) method developed by General Electric in the 1950s. This process mimics the intense heat and pressure found deep within the earth, where natural diamonds form over billions of years. While groundbreaking, the HPHT diamond method was both costly and technically complex. Even today, HPHT remains a valuable method, not only for creating diamonds but also for improving the colour of existing stones.

In the modern era, most lab-grown diamonds are produced using Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). In this process, a thin diamond “seed” is placed inside a sealed chamber filled with carbon-rich gas. The gas is heated until carbon atoms separate and bond to the seed, gradually building the diamond layer by layer. CVD diamond process offers greater control over clarity, colour, and size, and operates at lower pressures and temperatures than HPHT, making it more cost-effective. Although the first patent for CVD was issued in the 1950s, it took decades to refine the process for gem-quality stones. Early CVD diamonds were expensive to produce, up to tens of thousands of dollars per stone, because each diamond had to be grown individually.

Learn more about the differences between  HPHT vs CVD

Today, diamond production technology is highly advanced, allowing multiple diamonds to be grown at once while significantly lowering overall production costs. Regal collaborates closely with trusted producers who utilise the most advanced technological processes to craft exceptional lab-grown diamonds. This ensures every diamond in our collection meets strict standards for brilliance, durability, and ethical provenance. Should you be in the market for exquisite-looking diamond jewellery, see our lab-grown engagement diamond ring collection.

When lab-grown diamonds were first created, demand was minimal, as they were primarily used for industrial purposes. By the late 20th century, technological advancements had made gem-quality stones more accessible, sparking curiosity and growing acceptance.

Today, lab-grown, eco-friendly diamonds have moved firmly into the mainstream. In the U.S., they already represent around 10% of engagement ring sales, while in the UK their popularity has surged, with lab-grown stones now surpassing mined diamonds in engagement rings. Lab-grown diamond jewellery is typically 30–40% more affordable than mined diamonds while offering the same physical, chemical, and optical properties. For many buyers, especially younger generations, the appeal lies in affordability, sustainability, and the reassurance of ethical sourcing.

At Regal Hatton Garden, we’ve seen this transformation first-hand. More couples are now choosing lab-created diamonds for their engagement rings in the UK, valuing their stunning beauty, ethical origins, and exceptional affordability.