Choosing the Right Metal for Your Engagement Ring
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6 min
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6 min
Creating a bespoke ring is a deeply personal and meaningful experience. One of the most important decisions in this process is selecting the right metal, as it not only defines the aesthetic but also influences durability, wearability, and symbolism. Whether you are crafting an engagement ring, a wedding band, or a statement piece, the metal you choose tells its own story. From timeless platinum to romantic rose gold and creative two-tone blends, each metal has unique qualities to suit different styles, skin tones, and lifestyles. Below, we explore the most popular metals used in bespoke rings to help you make an informed, inspired choice.
Platinum is one of the most prestigious and valuable metals used in jewellery. It’s a naturally white metal known for its exceptional purity, strength, and hypoallergenic properties. Unlike white gold, platinum does not require rhodium plating to maintain its shine and colour, making it a low-maintenance option for everyday wear. Platinum (950) consists of 95% pure platinum and 5% other metals, typically palladium, copper or rhodium. It is denser and heavier than most other precious metals, which gives platinum rings a luxurious, substantial feel on the hand. Because of its rarity and naturally white hue, platinum is often chosen for important pieces like engagement rings and wedding rings.
Platinum is favoured for both traditional and modern ring styles. Classic solitaire engagement rings look incredibly striking in platinum, allowing the gemstone to truly shine. Halo settings, where smaller diamonds encircle the central stone, are also popular and enhance the metal’s brilliant contrast. More intricate designs benefit from platinum’s durability, which helps preserve detailed craftsmanship over time.
One of the main reasons to choose platinum is its enduring strength and purity. Because it’s 95% pure, it’s ideal for those with sensitive skin or allergies. Platinum holds gemstones securely and resists wear better than softer metals, making it an excellent choice for lifelong jewellery. It's subtle, cool-white sheen pairs beautifully with diamonds, enhancing their sparkle without adding a yellow tint. Moreover, platinum doesn’t lose metal when scratched; rather, the metal is displaced, so it can be polished back to its original finish, ensuring a lifetime of beauty.
Yellow gold is the most traditional of all jewellery metals and has been cherished for centuries. 18K Yellow Gold consists of 75% pure gold, 15% copper, and 10% silver, creating a rich, classic golden hue. Yellow gold is measured in carats, with 18K and 14K being the most popular for engagement rings, as they balance purity with structural integrity.
Yellow gold pairs well with a wide range of ring designs, from vintage to contemporary. Solitaire rings set in yellow gold offer a rich, romantic appearance, especially when paired with white diamonds or coloured gemstones. Modern brides might opt for a sleek, plain wedding band with an asymmetric or bezel-set diamond setting to complement a clean and minimal design.
The warm tone of yellow gold flatters most skin tones, particularly olive and darker complexions, giving it universal appeal. It’s also easier to resize and repair than some other metals, which is ideal for bespoke engagement rings that may need adjusting over time. Yellow gold has a long-standing heritage, often symbolising prosperity, love, and tradition. For those who appreciate history and legacy, yellow gold offers an emotional connection that transcends generations.
From antique heirloom styles to bold, modern designs, yellow gold lends itself to endless creative possibilities. Its versatility means it can be styled with engraved messages, textured finishes, or artistic forms, offering infinite ways to express personal style.
18K White Gold consists of 75% pure gold, blended with 10% palladium, 10% nickel, and 5% zinc or silver, giving it a bright white appearance, usually finished with a rhodium plating. The result is a sleek, silver-toned metal that mimics the look of platinum. White gold is available in various carats, with 18K and 14K being common choices for engagement ring settings due to their balance of purity and durability.
White gold is ideal for elegant, modern, and clean-lined ring styles. Halo settings, pavé bands, and cathedral settings look particularly stunning in white gold, enhancing the brilliance of diamonds and other light-coloured gemstones. It’s also popular for eternity bands and stackable rings due to its cohesive look and comfortable wear. Whether you prefer a modern princess-cut diamond or a classic round stone, white gold offers a polished, contemporary backdrop.
Many people choose white gold for its aesthetic appeal and affordability. It’s lighter than platinum and offers a similar icy shine, which enhances the sparkle of diamonds. White gold is durable, though it may need rhodium re-coating every few years to maintain its bright appearance. It complements cooler skin tones beautifully and pairs effortlessly with other white metals, making it ideal for mixed jewellery collections.
18K Rose Gold consists of 75% pure gold, 22.25% copper, and 2.75% silver, resulting in its distinctive warm, pinkish tone. The copper gives it its warm, blush-pink hue, which has grown in popularity over the last decade due to its vintage feel and soft, feminine look. Unlike yellow or white gold, rose gold isn’t plated, so its colour is consistent throughout and does not fade or tarnish over time. It typically comes in 18K or 14K variations, balancing beauty with durability.
Rose gold complements a wide array of ring designs, particularly those that channel vintage, bohemian, or romantic aesthetics. It pairs beautifully with both natural and lab diamond rings, offering a soft, romantic glow that enhances the brilliance of different diamond shapes. The warm tones of rose gold also work exceptionally well with coloured gems like morganite, pink sapphire, and champagne diamonds, making it a versatile and stylish choice for modern fine jewellery.
Choosing a rose gold ring offers a blend of tradition and uniqueness. The metal’s warmth flatters all skin tones, particularly fair and neutral complexions. It’s also more durable than yellow or white gold due to its higher copper content, which makes it resistant to scratches and dents. Rose gold is ideal for those who want a ring with personality and charm, offering a softer alternative to more traditional white or yellow metals. It’s also an excellent choice for vintage-inspired custom pieces and designs that stand out without being too bold.
Mixed metal or two-tone rings combine two or more metals, usually to create contrast and visual interest. Popular combinations include yellow gold with platinum, or rose gold paired with platinum or white gold. These rings are crafted to showcase the beauty and unique properties of each metal, offering a distinctive look that’s both stylish and symbolic. Two-tone designs are particularly popular in bespoke diamond rings as they allow for personalisation and creativity in the metalwork.
Mixed metal rings are incredibly versatile and work well in both modern and traditional designs. Engagement rings might feature a platinum setting for the centre stone with rose gold prongs or shanks, adding dimension to the design.
Choosing a mixed metal ring offers a balance between tradition and modernity. It’s perfect for those who want a ring that stands out without being overly flashy. This combination allows you to wear both silver-toned and gold-toned jewellery without clashing, offering greater flexibility. Two-tone rings also symbolise unity and duality—ideal for couples looking to represent their unique bond. From a practical perspective, combining metals can enhance durability and highlight specific features of the ring design.
Choosing the right metal for your bespoke ring is more than a stylistic decision, it’s about expressing your personal story, values, and taste. Whether you're drawn to the timeless prestige of platinum, the rich warmth of yellow or rose gold, the modern elegance of white gold, or the bold creativity of two-tone combinations, each metal brings its own character to your design. With thoughtful consideration, your choice will not only enhance the beauty of your ring but also ensure it stands the test of time, both in fashion and sentiment.
At Regal, your trusted Hatton Garden jewellers, we believe that every bespoke ring should begin with the perfect metal as its foundation. Whether it’s the enduring elegance of platinum, the classic charm of yellow gold, the contemporary brilliance of white gold, or the romantic warmth of rose gold, each metal offers its own unique advantages. Our seasoned experts carefully guide each client through these options, helping you consider both the aesthetic impact and the long-term durability that suit your lifestyle and vision.
We warmly invite you to visit our Hatton Garden showroom, where you can explore our stunning collection and discuss your ideas with our dedicated team. We combine top-tier craftsmanship with innovative design and competitive pricing, ensuring your bespoke ring is truly one of a kind. Whether you're designing a natural or a lab grown diamond ring, let us turn your dream into reality with precision, passion, and unmatched expertise.